See the growing year before you plant it.
Build a 12-month sowing, planting and harvest view, add local frost and short-range weather context for your town or postcode, then narrow it to the crops you actually grow.
Want a calendar for only the plants you actually grow? Add plants to My Garden, then return here and use the My plants filter.
How to read this calendar
The month bands are a broad cool-temperate baseline. A Southern Hemisphere location automatically shifts the seasonal windows by six months. Current forecast conditions only modify the current month's action shortlist; they do not rewrite future seasonal windows as though a seven-day forecast could predict later months.
Historical frost dates are climate-planning estimates, not guarantees for a specific bed. Elevation, walls, urban heat, slope, wind exposure, soil temperature and variety can move safe planting dates. Use the calendar as a decision aid and check the actual garden before planting.
The My plants filter reads plant names already stored in My Garden in this browser. It does not upload the garden list or create new tracked records. “Track this plant” opens the existing My Garden add form with the crop name prefilled.
A calendar that reacts to place, not just month names.
Most planting charts are static. Tiny Mustard Seed uses the location to detect hemisphere, overlays a 10-year frost pattern and checks the short-range forecast before treating tender outdoor windows in the current month as open.
The crop windows remain broad temperate planning ranges rather than exact agricultural prescriptions. Variety, greenhouse use, altitude, soil temperature and microclimate can move the real dates.
Short-range weather and climate history answer different questions.
The seven-day forecast is useful for immediate decisions such as whether a tender outdoor window deserves caution this week. It is deliberately applied only to the current month's action shortlist because a seven-day forecast cannot responsibly decide what conditions will be like months from now.
The frost-history layer has a different job. It summarizes past freeze timing to provide a broad seasonal boundary around the growing year. That can help frame seed starting and planting plans, but a historical median is not the same thing as the final frost that will occur in a specific garden this year.
For that reason, the calendar keeps seasonal windows, historical frost context and current forecast signals visible as separate layers rather than collapsing them into one falsely precise date.
What the planting calendar can—and cannot—tell you.
Does the planting calendar use live weather?
It uses the current seven-day forecast only to refine the action shortlist for the current month. A short-range forecast is not used to pretend that later months can already be predicted.
How does the calendar work in the Southern Hemisphere?
The broad cool-temperate seasonal windows are shifted by six months when the resolved location is south of the equator. Local variety guidance and regional climate information can still be more specific than that baseline.
Are the sowing and planting months exact dates?
No. They are planning windows. Historical frost context, the current forecast, soil temperature, protection, elevation, variety and microclimate can all move the practical date earlier or later.
What does the My plants filter do?
It reads the plant names already stored in My Garden in the same browser and reduces the calendar to those crops. It does not upload the garden list or create new plant records.
Why show historical frost dates as well as the forecast?
The forecast helps with the next few days, while historical frost dates help frame the wider growing season. Neither is a guarantee for a particular bed, so the two signals are kept separate.